How to layer from a Londoner's POV
A few thoughts on the art of transitional layering from a tailoring perspective.
Today we’ve got a guest post from our London correspondent, Cody McKim, who schools us on the art of transitional layering from a tailoring perspective. Cody’s written a few pieces for us in the past, like exploring London’s great independent menswear scene.
And in general, I love his obsession with prep, traditional tailoring, and all things classic menswear.
Since we talked last month about dressing for the in-between months for those in hotter climates, I thought it would be fun to get the UK perspective too.
London is quite possibly the spot for peak seasonal transition. It’s a time when we, as menswear nerds, geek out about the infinite fit combinations we have been cooking up in our heads over the last several months (queue The Hangover blackjack meme).
A time to offer up a warm embrace to those jackets/knits that have been lying dormant in storage for the past several months (don’t give me that look, you knew I’d be back). That’s right, you’ve got sun on your face but a distinct chill in the air...pints and cups of coffee outside are never more fashionable.
Depending on where you’re reading this from (no matter C or F) you’re having to compute swings in temp that either leave you aggressively sweating from a 20 min walk downtown (just me?) or kicking yourself for leaving that scarf or hat on the floor at home.
So today, I thought I’d share some thoughts with the help of a couple of London shops on things to consider during this transitional time with garments, fabrics, and layering techniques as a bit of a refresh. Not blowing up your autumnal wardrobe but merely adding a few hits for the season ahead. Perhaps a bit of an appetizer of shit we’re excited to put on to the incredibly robust entree of Derek Guy’s Excited to Wear read (which I highly recommend).
Thinking about those core elements to layer right - fabric, style, texture, and colour.
Our first stop was to kick it with Jake Grantham, the founder and designer behind Anglo-Italian, before walking nearby to speak with Mike, who runs Richard Gelding, about their thoughts on the season.
I’ve followed Jake and his brand for a number of years, but it was the first time we met, so we had a lot to chat about. It was great to get his POV on where Anglo-Italian sits within the menswear world, which also painted a clear picture of the intention that goes behind a lot of their garments’ designs.
I’d imagine a lot of those reading this already have their saved eBay searches ready to ping them at a moment’s notice for their perfect size in a vintage Barbour or waxed gilet. Well, I’d consider adding A-I searches to the mix if you are in the market for either.
These pieces look just as good with a knit and trousers as they do properly layered underneath a tee and denim jacket. The feel on them was quite impressive as Jake explained to me the waxing process they use is a blend of 20% recycled yarns stripped from discarded denim and traditional cotton, enabling them to give the depth and texture one would expect of the waxed garments of yesteryear.
You could really notice the weight and dimension the process brings out.
Then things like the detailing on the waxed gilet with the split placket offering more variety for closure - another slept on key with layering when you can manipulate how and which pieces you close/tighten/cinch to give a look more depth.
Always a good move to size up a bit on outerwear to allow for even more layering potential. It gives you that ability to make a suit and tie more approachable with a fresh barn (shown below) or donkey coat for example.
Smart enough to wear with everything.
As expected with most modern brands reimaging classics incredibly well, the show floor was the ideal footprint for a bit of that layering inspiration. Brands like Anglo-Italian these days have their palettes dialled, and I think we can learn a lot from what consistently goes well together year after year.
In a similar way to the videos I’ve been loving from creators on TikTok, interpreting ALD or other brand lookbooks with what’s already in their closet. Reaching back for well-loved pieces you already have and add a thing or two to freshen it up for the new season without having to reinvent the wheel.
They’re classics for a reason.
Moving on, personally, I’m a sucker for a mockneck and think it can add a lot of character to an overall look, as you can pair it with an OCBD for a pop of collar or rock it with a shorter jacket for a very clean look.
While muted colours are always there, like forest green and brown, surprises like ice blue and sage kept showing up across both shops.
A gentle nudge, we don’t all have to shudder underneath colours that mirror the grey days ahead, but can keep injecting a bit of energy into the mix.
When speaking with Mike over at Richard Gelding, I was intrigued by the amount of cashmere, shearling-lined, and even more technical fabrics like tencel coexisting together in a cohesive package. Speaking as a father of a toddler and living in London, it’s exciting to see more thought put into outerwear that blends form and function when you’re out all day and need clothing that can keep up.
While yes, I’d love to be draped in the dopest cashmere coat you’ve ever seen, I’m often grabbing something I can wear harder for the unexpected. I loved seeing brands like Briglia and Filippo de Laurentiis lean into this.
I found some of their items from brands like Maurizio Baldassari —really sharp, like an unlined beige blazer that adds the right amount of texture to a look while allowing bolder items like a printed scarf or rugby to shine through. The stand-up collar added some intrigue, too.
From there, it was back to how much transitional knits (again in cashmere, or a fine merino wool) can punch above their weight and carry us through the ups and downs with the weather.
Again, I really liked a black mockneck from Filippo de Laurentiis that featured subtle paneling, which, when paired with the right garments over top of it, looks really good.
Knits like a good heavyweight tee this time of year are everyday staples that serve as a necessary foundation for any fit worth its salt.
To round things out, as mentioned earlier, don’t forget to wrap it all together with a bright, airy scarf or something a bit more substantial when the temps really drop (shown below on Jake).
Happy layering y’all.
Tones.