The scene report from Paris

What to explore in Paris when you're there on a short trip.

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Where I went in Paris last week

I’ve been to Paris many times before, and twice in the last month. But as it turns out, I am often there for work during fashion weeks, which means the city is infiltrated with bi-coastal elites who flood the wine bars, tobacco shops, and vintage stores in search of that je ne sais quoi.

But my last two visits, both 12-24 hours long, were fun moments that let me slow my experience down and visit spots I’d otherwise not have time for, so I’m ungatekeeping a few of them here.

Keep in mind, this is neither a complete guide to Paris nor is it meant to cover the whole city. It is simply my experience spending time in the Marais (mostly).

More tips over time, but this should be good for now!

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Shopping

Husbands Paris (tailoring)

If there was a store that could revive the wearing of the suit in public settings (bar, Drake’s of London), these guys would be the ones to do it. The tailoring here operates in a kind of parallel timeline, as if you’ve stepped on the scene of a Wes Anderson film.

Silhouettes are considered, proportions are interesting, and the staff treat you like a person rather than a transaction. I left genuinely reconsidering my relationship with structured clothing.

Distance Athletics (running)

Distance has built something that feels closer to a concept store than a performance retailer. Their own objects and apparel sit alongside collabs and limited-run goods,

They also have outposts in Lyon, Copenhagen, Tokyo, and Iten, which tells you something about the community they’re building and the creative eye they have for being a globally-minded brand.

But they keep it 100 and have an independent spirit to everything they do, no matter how big those ON or Nike bags may be.

Yvon Lambert (books + art)

Walk in for the books, stay for the cocaine and heroine salt+pepper shakers. That’s the move at Yvon Lambert. The selection is vast, ranging from art and romance to photography and color theory, and it’s genuinely one of the better places in Paris to stumble across something you didn’t know you needed.

Ofr. Paris (books + art)

Perhaps an even greater book shop than the one above, Ofr. is the kind of shop that makes you want to read more, make more, and think harder about what you’re putting into the world. The magazine and book selection is obsessively curated, and the gallery component gives it a different weight than your average cultural retail space.

And as one friend told me when we walked out, “the owner is a hardcore socialist who figured out how to make money.”

Sums up the French, I’d say.

Merci (multi-brand retail)

This is an absolute mecca visit to make when in Paris. Merci has been doing the French countryside aesthetic long before it was a reference point for everyone else. The store’s full-range retail format (clothing, objects, home goods, its own linens, and pottery) works because it’s both coherent and comprehensive.

There’s no doubt we’ve lost the art of the department store, but curated retailers like Merci still offer hope in a sea of terrible curation.

Underrated item: the tote program. Slaps. Especially these minis.

Nuovo and Erem Vintage (vintage)

Both shops punch above their weight in terms of selection. If you’re looking for old Prada, Margiela, Calvin Klein, or Céline at a price that doesn’t require a conversation with your accountant, these are the spots.

The edit is tight and the quality holds up… not the kind of vintage rail you have to dig through hoping for luck. Worth budgeting time (and some euros) for both.

Disclaimer: I was here with my partner, so we didn’t quite manage all the menswear shops I’d have liked to hit, but if you’re keen on vintage, a couple that are worth the vist are: BRUT and Rêve de Gosse.

Buttes Snack Bar (wine bar and restaurant)

This is a proper natty wine bar (for those who partake) with a dinner menu that changes often and hits every time. Mussels in harissa bouillon, gochujang wings, and one of the few places that could persuade me to eat asparagus.

The kind of neighborhood spot that makes you wish you lived around the corner. Don’t forget to bike downhill after dinner and you can see the Eiffel Tower twinkling in the distance.

Bambino (listening bar)

I’d heard about Bambino before I went, which sometimes works against a place, but not here. The room is doing Tokyo jazz cafe meets London club, and the food (charcoal-grilled, a little unexpected) holds its own against the atmosphere.

The sound system is serious, and the vinyl wall is immense. By Friday at 11, it turns into a dance bar, and it’s all downhill (in a good way) from there.

Dreamin Man (coffee)

Dreamin’ Man may be one of the more talked-about coffee shops recommended when you go to Paris, but it’s far from performative. The owners are no-nonsense, focus on the craft, and the more I visit Paris, the more it becomes my default spot to anchor a morning around.

Long live Dreamin’ Man.

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I’m fully aware that Paris rewards the slow visit. Not the fashion week sprint or the 24 jaunt, but this is a nice little hit list to explore as a baseline if you’re in a time crunch.

Let us know what we missed!

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Note: this was also posted first on another newsletter, Hyper, last week. Link is here.