These brands seem to have defined what "Americana" was at a certain point in time, yet didn't adapt evolve with the times. Brands like ALD, Rowing Blazers, Todd Snyder, and Noah filled that gap.
Seems like they are still holding onto a certain point in time without defining where we are going. Reactive vs. visionary, holding onto pseudo versions of all the above mentioned brands.
Combine that with more fashion niches where there are less mono stories like peak J.Crew era.
Combine that with a lot of these brands pursuing fast fashion / drop in quality; there's going to have to be more education around why we should care / why we should trust.
Love this, good observations. I'd add more specifically that ALD, Noah, RB and TS have managed to fuse different genres and styles together which fits more of the current model of what consumers want.
I know what you mean. I keep walking into J.Crew, Banana, and The Gap hoping to feel the same buzz that I did when their clothes felt essential -- when they were the core building blocks of my wardrobe as my style sense was really developing. I still have pieces from the Banana 'Mad Men' collection that I really love. But it's been a long time since I've felt that same buzz walking into any of those stores, where I went in, looked around, and felt like I couldn't leave without bringing something home with me.
And if I'm brutally honest about it, it's because there's nothing there that feels essential -- that feels like it'll be a building block in my wardrobe. And that's because of the numbing homogeneity of the offerings. I don't need another pair of khakis. I don't need another gingham shirt that looks like the last gingham shirt. And I think the pandemic played a big role in that. I realized that I could get along with far less. And if I was going to buy something, it was because it filled an absolute need.
I'm intrigued by the redesign at J.Crew, and I look forward to checking out the offerings there. I loved the relaunch of Banana, but it was all preposterously expensive, and sold out in seconds. So I unfortunately missed out on the vintage t-shirt (which, admittedly, would have been a lot of fun).
The nostalgia is helpful, but it may be all they're running on now.
Don't remember the technical outdoor phase? Patagonia, North Face, Aether. Well it's still relevant and new technologies, from "fabric" though I don't know if that term is relevant, nor accurate, and manufacturing methods, will push through past style because, you know, there's this phenomenon called 'weather' and - for sure - climate change - that has compelled the stylish to compromise and adapt their wardrobe. There are the brands that have crossed over to street-ware starting with the OG down filled coats in the 70's (now Puffers?) and Timberland. Another great trend (though I could do a book on khaki's as well) are jeans. What a boom in denim it boggles - unreal- except for stretch - my opinion here is wasted money. Nine hundred bucks for DENIM stomped on by Zen monks? You want jeans - buy Wrangler. Any style, cut, fit, color and forever. Buy them at Shepler's right out Texas and they ought to know - AND here's a tip: even if you own a high tech thinny-thin-thin wallet you guys, you're still sitting on it. If you look at Wrangler Cowboy Cut(s) also in any color, fit, etc. the back pockets are elevated and riveted. No more trips to chiro you Constanza-types. And they make the assless look good - and fatasses in proportion. Filson, LLBean, Orvis - real outfitters fighting their way into the city and are mighty strong online. Their designers are not tone deaf and they have big budgets, great return policies (they want you for life!) and are up styling. Hey buckaroos, don't forget the cowboy boot era. With COVID came athleisure wear -- where comfort was and is a heavy driver - expanding that ethos into workleisure. Heavily dependent on scientific research into no smell, all wash, temperature adjusting garments. Good examples of very, very cutting edge built in tech are Ministry of Supply for clothing and Atoms for 'shoes' that have jumped from sneakers into some other description I can't tag. Lastly, high pricing meant quality - that used to nominate those garments to the last forever category. But that's not true - thank you fashionistas. Prices are out of control - even with economics as a driving factor - ridiculoid incongruence making to selling costs. So when I buy I follow the quality lasts forever dictum. Having broken my eye teeth in the sixties, worked in Manhattan, all over the US and worldwide, there is nothing preventing anyone from adopting their own style, and worn with 'sprezzatura' you are style - your own. A caveat: Any brands mentioned I own and wear or have worn.
These brands seem to have defined what "Americana" was at a certain point in time, yet didn't adapt evolve with the times. Brands like ALD, Rowing Blazers, Todd Snyder, and Noah filled that gap.
Seems like they are still holding onto a certain point in time without defining where we are going. Reactive vs. visionary, holding onto pseudo versions of all the above mentioned brands.
Combine that with more fashion niches where there are less mono stories like peak J.Crew era.
Combine that with a lot of these brands pursuing fast fashion / drop in quality; there's going to have to be more education around why we should care / why we should trust.
Love this, good observations. I'd add more specifically that ALD, Noah, RB and TS have managed to fuse different genres and styles together which fits more of the current model of what consumers want.
I know what you mean. I keep walking into J.Crew, Banana, and The Gap hoping to feel the same buzz that I did when their clothes felt essential -- when they were the core building blocks of my wardrobe as my style sense was really developing. I still have pieces from the Banana 'Mad Men' collection that I really love. But it's been a long time since I've felt that same buzz walking into any of those stores, where I went in, looked around, and felt like I couldn't leave without bringing something home with me.
And if I'm brutally honest about it, it's because there's nothing there that feels essential -- that feels like it'll be a building block in my wardrobe. And that's because of the numbing homogeneity of the offerings. I don't need another pair of khakis. I don't need another gingham shirt that looks like the last gingham shirt. And I think the pandemic played a big role in that. I realized that I could get along with far less. And if I was going to buy something, it was because it filled an absolute need.
I'm intrigued by the redesign at J.Crew, and I look forward to checking out the offerings there. I loved the relaunch of Banana, but it was all preposterously expensive, and sold out in seconds. So I unfortunately missed out on the vintage t-shirt (which, admittedly, would have been a lot of fun).
The nostalgia is helpful, but it may be all they're running on now.
Some good thoughts here. I think part of the idea, if you're J.Crew, of is being able to answer the questions:
- did we solve a need for the customers?
- did we make the customer feel something they hadn't felt?
- did we remind the customer of something they missed and draw them back?
What else can you really offer as a brand?
Don't remember the technical outdoor phase? Patagonia, North Face, Aether. Well it's still relevant and new technologies, from "fabric" though I don't know if that term is relevant, nor accurate, and manufacturing methods, will push through past style because, you know, there's this phenomenon called 'weather' and - for sure - climate change - that has compelled the stylish to compromise and adapt their wardrobe. There are the brands that have crossed over to street-ware starting with the OG down filled coats in the 70's (now Puffers?) and Timberland. Another great trend (though I could do a book on khaki's as well) are jeans. What a boom in denim it boggles - unreal- except for stretch - my opinion here is wasted money. Nine hundred bucks for DENIM stomped on by Zen monks? You want jeans - buy Wrangler. Any style, cut, fit, color and forever. Buy them at Shepler's right out Texas and they ought to know - AND here's a tip: even if you own a high tech thinny-thin-thin wallet you guys, you're still sitting on it. If you look at Wrangler Cowboy Cut(s) also in any color, fit, etc. the back pockets are elevated and riveted. No more trips to chiro you Constanza-types. And they make the assless look good - and fatasses in proportion. Filson, LLBean, Orvis - real outfitters fighting their way into the city and are mighty strong online. Their designers are not tone deaf and they have big budgets, great return policies (they want you for life!) and are up styling. Hey buckaroos, don't forget the cowboy boot era. With COVID came athleisure wear -- where comfort was and is a heavy driver - expanding that ethos into workleisure. Heavily dependent on scientific research into no smell, all wash, temperature adjusting garments. Good examples of very, very cutting edge built in tech are Ministry of Supply for clothing and Atoms for 'shoes' that have jumped from sneakers into some other description I can't tag. Lastly, high pricing meant quality - that used to nominate those garments to the last forever category. But that's not true - thank you fashionistas. Prices are out of control - even with economics as a driving factor - ridiculoid incongruence making to selling costs. So when I buy I follow the quality lasts forever dictum. Having broken my eye teeth in the sixties, worked in Manhattan, all over the US and worldwide, there is nothing preventing anyone from adopting their own style, and worn with 'sprezzatura' you are style - your own. A caveat: Any brands mentioned I own and wear or have worn.